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1 Bedroom/1 Bathroom.............................$140.25

2 Bedroom/1 Bathroom.......................$182.75

2 Bathroom/2 Bedroom.................$191.25

3 Bedroom/1 Bathroom.............$225.25

3 Bedroom/2 Bathroom.......$255.00

TAKE $20.00 OFF

ANY CLEANING OVER  $100.00

VALID UNTIL 9-1-2018

How to Clean Laminate Floors

-Less Water is Best-

By Rob Lebeck

Cleaning laminate floors is a breeze with the right mop. This handy guide will teach you how to clean laminate floors effortlessly so you have more time to put your feet up!

To get started you will need 2 things:

#1 Microfiber Mop

First make sure you have the right mop for the job. The best way to clean laminate floors is with a microfiber mop.

Microfiber mops glide across the floor picking up dirt and pet hair effortlessly. The swivel heads make it super fast to cover large areas, they get under tables and chairs easily, plus they require less water which is best because laminate flooring warps easily if exposed to water.

#2 Cleaning Solution

You can either buy a manufacturer’s cleaning solution or make one yourself (scroll down to see my recipe for homemade laminate floor cleaner below). Either way you’ll need a spray bottle to squirt the cleaning solution onto the mop pad.

Quick Instructions

1. dry mop with your microfiber mop OR use a vacuum on the wood floors setting to suck up big dust bunnies and hair tumbleweeds
2. dampen the microfiber pad with warm water and spray on the cleaning solution of your choice
3. mop the floor
4. when the microfiber pad gets too dirty simply – rinse, replace and continue
5. when you’re finished rinse the microfiber pad and put it in the washing machine on sanitary wash

NOT Recommended

Cleaning laminate floors with string mops or sponge mops will take you longer, leave streaky marks and because they use a lot of water will make it easier for moisture to sink into the cracks.

If moisture gets into the laminate core board it can warp the laminate floors over time.

No matter what the manufacturer told you about their floor having an airtight lock system, unless you’ve bought special waterproof laminate flooring with waxed edges I would never recommend using a string or sponge mop on laminate floor.  

Scroll to the bottom of this page to read my do’s and don’ts for caring for laminate flooring, plus bonus tips for removing exotic stains or stubborn marks.

3 Best Ways to Start

There’s never one perfect way to do anything which is why I’m going to leave it up to you to choose how you get the big dust bunnies and hair tumble weeds off the floor.
Everyone has their own personal routine and if you’re happier to do things a certain way then stick to it.
Here are the 3 best ways to get rid of the big stuff before you begin mopping with water. I’ve started with the fastest method and ended with the slowest.

1. Run a vacuum over the floor. Make sure it is set on the wood floors setting*
2. OR use the microfiber mop (without water) to get all the big clumps of hair and dust up. You can scrape the debris off and rinse before using the same microfiber pad for wet mopping
3. OR dry dust mop with a Swiffer type sweeper
Top Tip - It is best to sweep or vacuum in the direction that the floor is laid in to collect all the dirt between the grooves instead of trapping it.
*Don’t use a vacuum with a beater bar because it can scratch the laminate floor. If your laminate floor has a high gloss or piano surface I recommend you avoid vacuuming altogether just to be on the safe side and begin with #2 or #3 instead. This is because even if you set the vacuum to the wood floors setting it can still scratch the floor and scratches on high gloss or piano surface are very obvious in the light.

Just Add Water

If you’ve already been using your microfiber mop to dry mop the laminate floor, you can either scrape off the debris into a bin, rinse and reattach or simply replace the microfiber pad with a spare one.
Top Tip – it’s good to have a spare pad or two so you always have one to mop up emergency spillages with whilst others are cycling in the wash.
1. prepare your home made cleaning solution in a spray bottle or just grab your branded one from the cupboard
2. dampen the microfiber pad with warm water from the tap (not too soggy) and spray on the cleaning solution
3. mop the floor – a microfiber mop cuts through gunk with hardly any pushing down or scrubbing, so relax and let the mop do the work
4. when the microfiber pad gets too dirty after one or two rooms – rinse, reattach and continue. REMEMBER - You don’t need to haul a bucket of warm water around with you. One microfiber pad can easily last for two rooms or more so you don’t need to rinse it out in the sink very often. There’s no squeegeeing or high-duty wringing like with a string mop
5. when you’re finished rinse the microfiber pad in the sink and hang out to dry.
6. After several uses (and the pad appears to be quite discolored) put it in the washing machine on sanitary wash And that’s it!
This method of cleaning laminate floors will cut your cleaning time in half, plus it is the safest way to wet mop laminate flooring to prevent serious damage from warping.

Homemade Laminate Floor Cleaner

Here’s an excellent recipe for homemade laminate floor cleaner that works a treat, especially for cleaning high gloss laminate flooring leaving it completely streak free:
 3 parts water to 1 part vinegar
 1 squirt of liquid dish detergent
 put it all in a spray bottle and you’re good to go!
Making your own homemade laminate floor cleaner will save you from ever needing to buy an expensive manufacturer’s cleaner

Do’s and Don’ts of Caring for Laminate Flooring

 Do not use mops like string mops or sponge mops that use a lot of water (remember – if water corrupts the core-board it will cause it to warp!)

 When wet mopping your floor, do not soak the microfiber mop pad just dampen it

 Blot up large spills with a sponge, dry cloth or paper towel. Do not allow puddles to remain on the surface of your laminate floor for a long period of time because they could cause warping

 Remember, laminate floor is not real wood, so you should never wax or polish your laminate flooring

 Do not use anything with chemicals that promotes a clean and shine

 Do not use bleach or abrasive cleaners for cleaning laminate floors

 Never use steel wool or scouring pads because they are renown for scratching surfaces

Removing Exotic Stains and Stubborn Marks

 Blood: give it spray of window cleaner and wipe with a damp cloth

 Chewing gum: use a plastic knife or something else (nonmetal) to get under the gum and avoid scratching the floor. Once you’ve prized the worst of it off rub the residue with a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits

 Crayon: apply mineral spirits to a damp cloth and rub away

 Grease: Freeze with an ice pack until the grease hardens, then scrape off with a plastic knife. Wipe away the remaining residue with a squirt of window cleaner and a damp cloth.

 Ink: Wipe with a damp cloth. Add a little detergent if the stain is stubborn. If it’s very stubborn use a commercial ink remover but be sure to wipe up with a damp cloth once you’re done

 Nail polish: You guessed it, the answer is – nail polish remover. Wipe up with a warm watered damp cloth once your done.

 Red Wine or Coca Cola: wipe with a damp cloth

 Scuffs and heel marks: rub with a pencil eraser. It’s just like correcting your kid’s homework

 

 

STARTING JULY 31st!

NEW CLIENTS SAVE $25

ON ANY CLEANING

Rob’s Cleaning Rates

*NEW LOWER PRICES*

STUDIO or 1 BED, 1 BATH  $99.00

STUDIO or 1 BED, 1 BATH DEEP CLEANING $165.00

2 bed, 1 bath $110.00

2 BED, 1 BATH DEEP CLEANING $215.00

2 BED, 2 BATH  $125.00

2 BED, 2 BATH DEEP CLEANING $225.00

3 BED, 1 BATH $145.00

3 BED, 1 BATH DEEP CLEANING $265.00

3 BED, 2 BATH  $170.00

3 BED, 2 BATH DEEP CLEANING $300.00

4 BED, 1 BATH  $170.00

4 BED, 1 BATH DEEP CLEANING $335.00

4 BED, 2 BATH  $185.00

4 BED, 2 BATH DEEP CLEANING $350.00

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STANDARD CLEANING

I founded my business on the motto of providing exceptional service & affordable rates.  See?  It's really not that expensive to spoil yourself by having me clean your home for you!

"Where exceptional service & affordability meet!"

The Best Way to Clean & Remove Soap Scum

By Rob Lebeck

Soap scum is not just dirty soap, it's minerals from the water combined with dirt, body oils, sloughed off skin and bacteria.

BAKING SODA

Baking soda is a deodorizing abrasive that will help to remove soap scum from your shower or your tub.

· 1 cup of baking soda

· 1 Tbs. dishwashing detergent (or 1 squirt!)

· 1-2 cups of water

Mix these together in a bowl to form a paste with the consistency of pancake batter.

1. Dip a soft bristle brush into the solution

2. Apply to the soap scum and let the solution sit for about 15 minutes.

3. Scrub with a soft bristle brush until the soap scum is gone.

4. Rinse completely with hot water.

5. Wipe the area dry to help remove any remaining traces of grime.

VINEGAR

This is an acidic formula that helps to cut grease. Vinegar is also a natural deodorizer for your shower or your tub.

· 4 cups of white vinegar

· 4 cups water

· 1 Tbs. dishwashing detergent

Mix the solution together and then fill a spray bottle.

1. Spray the soap scum with the vinegar solution

2. Let the vinegar work on the stain for 15 minutes.

3. Scrub with a soft bristle brush.

4. Rinse completely with hot water.

5. Wipe the area dry to help remove any remaining traces of grime.

AMMONIA

Ammonia is alkaline and is very effective at cutting through waxy soap scum build up. The smell of ammonia is very strong, so open the window when using it.

· 1 cups of ammonia

· 2 cups water

Mix the cleaning solution in a spray bottle.

1. Spray the ammonia solution onto the soap scum

2. Let the ammonia sit on the soap scum for 30 minutes.

3. Do not allow the ammonia cleaner to dry.

4. Scrub the stain with a soft bristle brush.

5. Rinse the area thoroughly with hot water.

6. Wipe the area dry to help remove any remaining traces of grime. 

STANDARD CLEANS

1 Bed/1 Bath ............................$99.00

2 Bed/1 Bath ...........................$115.00

2 Bed/2 Bath ...........................$125.00

3 Bed/1 Bath ...........................$145.00

DEEP CLEANINGS

(2 to 5 additional hours of cleaning)

1 Bed/1 Bath........................... $179.00

2 Bed/1 Bath........................... $215.00

2 Bed/2 Bath ...........................$225.00

3 Bed/1 Bath ...........................$255.00

Maintaining Porous Flooring

By: Rob Lebeck

While there are hundreds of hard surface floor types, most fall into two general categories: porous and nonporous.

A nonporous floor does not absorb soils or moisture. These would include such floors as glazed ceramic or glazed porcelain tiles. Porous floors, on the other hand, include traditional unglazed tile and grout (both tile and grout are porous), limestone, concrete, and brick flooring. A nonporous floor is often easier to clean and maintain; however, in most healthcare and other commercial facilities, porous floors are most commonly found. The reason for this is simple: safety. The porous surface can improve traction, which can help minimize the possibility of a slip-and-fall accident.

Safety is its strong suit, but the downside of porous floors is that soil and moisture can build up in the pores, causing discoloration and a soiled appearance. As this happens, bacteria and malodor can also develop. Further, should a soiled porous floor become wet, instead of promoting safety, it can actually become quite slippery, essentially eliminating its most important attribute.

To help protect the floor and prevent soil buildup, some administrators have their floors sealed. The type of sealant used will depend on the type of floor. However, they all work essentially the same. They cover the surface of the floor with a protective film, helping to block contaminants from lodging in the pores of the floor.

The problem that arises is that the sealer begins to wear down with time and foot traffic. When this happens, the floor is left unprotected and soiling begins. Further, some facilities prefer not to apply a sealer typically because floor care is time consuming and costly. In time, the sealer must be stripped off the floor—similar to finish (wax)—and then a new sealant applied. Some facilities are also concerned about the environmental impacts of some chemicals used to perform floor cleaning.

 

Routine and Restorative Cleaning – Whether a sealant is applied to a porous floor or not, the keys to maintaining these floors come down to routine cleaning and more extensive restorative cleaning. Whenever possible, vacuum porous floors instead of dust mopping. Using a backpack vacuum, for instance, soils are removed from the pores. A dust mop will remove some soils and it will also push other soils into the pores.

The floor should also be damp mopped regularly. If using a traditional mopping system, change the mop head and water frequently. Just as with dust mopping, as the wet mop is used on the floor, it becomes contaminated and can start spreading soils instead of removing them, again defeating our cleaning goal.

Restorative cleaning typically involves using a conventional rotary floor machine. The problem that arises is that such machines only clean the top surface of the floor. They cannot reach deep into the grout or pores of the floor. An alternative that can be employed is to essentially pressure wash the floors, applying water at about 1,200-psi. The water and soils are then vacuumed up, all in the same process, leaving the floor essentially dry when work is completed. While there are different systems available, those used with so called “dual surface” carpet extractors tend to be the most popular. These extractors can be used to clean carpets and then, with a change of attachments, clean porous floors.

Whichever floor type is installed in your facility, cleaning and care are paramount to protect the floor, its appearance, and the health and safety of the facility. When it comes to porous floors, they can provide years of service, help increase safety, and are relatively easy to clean and maintain…as long as the right procedures, systems, and methods are employed.

DEEP CLEANINGS

UNTIL 4/2/2018

PAMPER HER WITH.........

FREEDOM FROM HOUSEKEEPING

AS A TREAT FROM YOU...

(OFFER GOOD UNTIL 2-28-2018 

NOT TO BE USED WITH ANY OTHER PROMOTION)

TIPS FOR REMOVING

by Rob Lebeck, Owner

The first thing you want to do when preparing to remove stains from your toilet is to shut off the main water valve located behind the toilet on the wall. Turn it clockwise until it stops. Then use a bucket or cup to remove as much water as you can from the toilet bowl.

If you're using a brush, use one with nylon bristles. The old-style ones with wire bristles will scratch and damage the porcelain. Or, you might even consider using a pumice stone instead of a brush -- it's slightly abrasive, but not enough to damage the porcelain. However, if you go this route, make sure there's a bit of water in the toilet to work with. The water helps prevent the pumice from scratching the porcelain.

If you're using a commercial cleanser, follow the directions on the label. But you can use more natural solutions that you probably already have at home:

 Vinegar and baking soda -- Add 1 or 2 cups of vinegar to the toilet bowl along with a few sprinkles of baking soda. Swish the solution around the bowl with your brush for a few minutes and then let it sit for about 15 minutes. Scrub the stains with your brush (or pumice stone). If this doesn't remove the stain, try adding some lemon juice to dissolve the last of it. Turn the water back on, flush and repeat the cleaning process, if necessary. 

Coca-Cola -- After emptying the bowl, fill it with Coca-Cola (yes, really -- Coca-Cola). The acids in the soda help eat away at the stains. Let it sit overnight. Flush the next day and get to work with your pumice stone or brush on the now-loosened stains.

Now for what not to do: Don't use bleach in the toilet bowl. It won't work on the stains and can damage a septic system. And never, ever, mix bleach and ammonia. The resulting fumes can irritate respiratory passages and can even be fatal. Don't scrub with anything metal or super-abrasive. You'll ruin the porcelain.

Another Affordable Housekeeping Tip!!

The one thing everyone seems to agree on is that you may need to apply your stain remover more than once, and be ready to apply some good old-fashioned elbow grease. You can get rid of the stains if you persevere!

"NEW CLIENT 

APPRECIATION DISCOUNT"

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(Monthly, Bi-Weekly or Weekly)

you get 20% OFF your 1st Cleaning

and save 10% for Monthly,

15% for Bi-Weekly

and 20% for Weekly

each cleaning thereafter!

STANDARD CLEANS

1 Bed/1 Bath ................$99.00
2 Bed/1 Bath............... $115.00
2 Bed/2 Bath............... $125.00
3 Bed/1 Bath............... $145.00

DEEP CLEANING

(Includes 2 to 5 additional hours)

1 Bed/1 Bath ...............$179.00 
2 Bed/1 Bath............... $215.00
2 Bed/2 Bath............... $225.00
3 Bed/1 Bath ...............$255.00

(DEDUCT 1/3 FROM LISTED PRICES)

DEEP CLEANINGS

UNTIL VALENTINE'S DAY!

 2/14/2018

STUDIO OR 1 BEDROOM HOME

ONLY $99.00 !!!

DEEP CLEANINGS

1/3 OFF ALL THIS

WEEK

On All Deep Cleanings booked my birthday week

~1/14/2018 to 1/21/2018~

DEEP CLEANING

(Includes 2 to 5 additional hours)

1 Bed/1 Bath ...............$179.00

2 Bed/1 Bath............... $215.00

2 Bed/2 Bath............... $225.00

3 Bed/1 Bath ...............$255.00

(DEDUCT 1/3 FROM LISTED PRICES)

Make your home sparkle with one of our exceptional

Deep Cleanings.  All of the holidays are over,

so a Deep Cleaning just makes good sense! 

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How to Clean Carpet

With Vinegar

Vinegar has become the new buzzword when it comes to green cleaning, and this is one instance where the product actually lives up to the hype. Plain white vinegar is an amazing natural cleanser and is quite possibly the most versatile all-purpose cleaner that you could ever use. One unexpected place where vinegar is incredibly effective is for everyday carpet cleaning. As a natural deodorizing agent, vinegar freshens carpets by removing stale odors from age, food, and pet accidents, as well as any mustiness left from excess liquid of any kind. Here’s a look at how you can use vinegar to transform your carpet cleaning regimen.

Benefits of Vinegar as a Cleaning Product

Mother Nature has provided all-natural solutions for cleaning that are both effective and safe, and vinegar is one of them. Vinegar is very acidic with a pH of about 2.4 (a neutral pH is 7). This acidity means that vinegar is naturally:

• antiseptic (kills germs)

• antibacterial (kills many bacteria that cause illnesses)

• antimicrobial (kills microbes and other microscopic organisms)

• able to kill mold

Besides being able to kill numerous household germs and loosen and lift dirt from surfaces, vinegar is completely safe. Unlike most commercial carpet cleaners, vinegar will not cause any harm if ingested and is 100 percent pet and baby friendly. Vinegar is also eco-friendly, will never cause damage to plumbing systems, and is incredibly cheap. In short, white vinegar makes a very effective, economical, and ecologically wise household cleanser.

With Vinegar, It’s All in the Technique

While vinegar can make for an excellent carpet cleaner, you can’t just dump it on and wipe it up like an industrial cleaner. With vinegar, finesse is critical or you may end up damaging your carpet fibers. As with any cleaner, it’s important to test the vinegar on a hidden area before using it to clean the carpet. Using a damp rag, an inconspicuous area of carpet (inside a closet or in a corner, for example) can be moistened before applying the vinegar as if you were actually cleaning the area. Allow the vinegar to sit for a few minutes and then blot it away. After about 24 hours, examine the area for color fading or changes in texture.

If the fibers are unchanged, then you know that the vinegar is safe to use. For most types of cleaning, you will want to dilute the vinegar with water to protect the carpet fibers. Usually, the vinegar will have to sit on the carpet for a bit to maximize its effectiveness. Keep in mind that the room will smell of vinegar during the cleaning, but once the carpet dries, the smell will completely disappear. No rinsing is necessary. For more specific cleaning instructions see below.

Tips for Using Vinegar as a Carpet Cleaner

• Steam Cleaning with Vinegar: When carpets need an overall, deep down clean, plain vinegar can replace those costly and chemical-laden commercial steam cleaning solutions. If the steam cleaner has a tank where cleaning solution alone is added, it can be filled with full-strength vinegar straight from the bottle. If, however, the steam cleaner’s manual instructs you to add a certain amount of cleanser along with hot water in a single tank, the vinegar can simply be substituted in the exact amount recommended. If the manual states to use eight ounces of cleaning solution, for example, eight ounces of vinegar should be used instead.

• Stain Removal: White vinegar may be useful in removing fresh stains from food or drink spills, pet accidents, or grime tracked in from outside. It is always best to treat any spill as soon as it happens, before the stain has a chance to set into the carpet fibers. Any solid matter from a spill should be scooped up and any liquid blotted with a towel. Once almost all of the liquid has been absorbed, diluted vinegar can be sprayed or very lightly poured over the area and allowed to sit. It should then be blotted up with a clean cloth until the stain is no longer visible.

While vinegar is an effective carpet cleaner, dilution will help to ensure that your carpet fibers are protected. Again, always test an inconspicuous area first with the diluted solution before applying it to the entire carpet.

ROB LEBECK

ROB’S HOUSEKEEPING SERVICE

www.robshousekeepingservice.com

206-321-3756